Page : AA-46
Modified 5/2021)
..At this point, your violin bridge is rough tuned and the pluck tones of all four strings are even and rich. Now, we want to go to the higher level and enrich the Timbre of each string to our liking and make them match each other....
..We will be drawing on the research results of retired Finnish physicist Lars Silen.
{..If you want to visit the original internet articles then :
to to Violinist.com and 3/13/2014 article by Lars with details on specific adjustments}.
[Website: http://www.kolumbus.fi/larsil/lenglish.htm ] // { E mail : Lars .Silen@kolumbus .fi }
..Lars has developed a technique that allows the user of his technique to fine acoustically tune the Timbre of each string with the bridge still on the instrument. This will save a lot of time!
..I personally have used his method and highly recommend learning it to.....
Here is a summary of the principles of adjusting the Timbre of individual Violin strings at the bridge, with the bridge still on the instrument........(Lars suggests using a 0.20" diameter steel rod for tapping bridge...}
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
G
E
..The Top of the Kidneys must never go above the bottom of the Heart...
..The sides of the Heart must never to as far as the inner edge of the Kidney Shape...
..These are the only areas we will expand as we tune, while maintaining the overall pleasing shapes...
..The holes are not to be expanded to either side, only as drawn...Start adjustments by filing at the waist...
..The bottom arch will be increased for added note focus, as needed..
0.611" Minimum
(15.5 Min.)
"..More bottom arch makes more 'ring'; all strings clearer and more lively..."
..If Overdone, sound becomes Too Bright / Harsh.
..To make"D" more responsive, File here...{If overdone : The 'D' String becomes Nasal and Unpleasant...}
..File arch higher Here if above is overdone, to compensate...
..File the right bottom arch to brighten strings Left {G and D}; (and vice/ versa).
,,Slanting the outer edge of the ear on the 'E' side; makes the tone warmer...{A little adjustment makes a Big Difference!}
..Doing the same on opposite side gives more Treble but risks Bass Becoming dry...
..Make Openings as Big as possible without Tone becoming too Nasal / Boomy / Harsh....
[Remembering restrictions from above...]
..Bridge Foot Stiffness, including the traditional accentuated {'Makers"} cuts; change high frequency response...
>>Vice / Versa for 'A' String Adjustment...<<
G
E
..To make"G" more responsive, File here...{If overdone : The 'G' String becomes Nasal and Unpleasant...}
..File arch higher Here if above is overdone, to compensate...
>>Vice / Versa for 'E' String Adjustment...<<
..Cover the area under bridge with heavy paper to prevent varnish damage during filing the arch...
.>>>.I would save the above, for the very last step.<<<
.. Pluck across all four string to get an impression of violin's Timbre.
..If the the Timbre is wonderful as is; STOP, you are done!
..If, however, you are not yet completely pleased : File a very small amount off this lower outside corner and retest the Pluck sound. It it is better, continue...
..When you think it is wonderful : STOP, you are done!
..This adjustment is to have the tap tone of the end of the Bridge "beam", on each end, match the side tap of the upper bridge; both of which should be at (227 1/2 HZ). {Same as the tap tone of the violin ribs.}
..If too low, taper the face of the "beam" shape on the face side (toward fingerboard), in the area shown; until the 'from the side',tap tone matches.
..If the end tap tone of the "beam" shape, on either side, is too high; file or sand the very end until it matches (227 1/2) HZ.
..The adjustment goes very quickly so only tiny amounts of material need be removed.
"Beam"
